Knockout
cuts
Men’s hair heavyweights square off
at Tokyo’s World Barber Classic
They came, they saw, they clipped.
Inside the hallowed ring at Tokyo’s Korakuen Hall -- the boxing venue at the 1964 Summer Olympics, now a mecca for combat sports -- barbers from across Asia gathered on July 14 for the second World Barber Classic, celebrating the culture and craft of the male haircut.
In sweltering conditions, 13 competitors chosen through a series of regional qualifiers in Japan, Malaysia, South Korea and Taiwan took to the stage in intense half-hour heats. Armed with scissors and combs, they worked swiftly under the watchful eyes of a panel of internationally renowned judges, presenting their models to a sometimes rowdy audience of friends, family and fellow barbers.
By late afternoon, only three finalists remained. At the end of the night veteran barber Mr. Sasaki, founder of Spinner Barbearia, in Japan’s Shiga prefecture, north of Kyoto, celebrated victory in tears in front of supporters who had come to see him improve on his third-place finish in the 2020 inaugural event.
Second was Park Chi Guk, known as V, representing South Korea’s Mancave Barbershop chain. Shoma Sugimura, a qualifier from Japan's Kanto region, finished in third place. Sugimura is a head barber at Mr. Brothers Cut Club, a Japanese chain whose parent company organized the event.
In the 155 years since Japan’s first Western-style barbershop opened in the port city of Yokohama, local barbers have drawn continual inspiration from their American and European counterparts -- first serving sailors and traveling merchants, and later offering savvy Japanese customers the styles they had seen in films and magazines.
Even as perms, mushroom cuts and inexpensive train-station salons rose in popularity, American-style barbershops found a firm place in modern Japanese culture, a testament to time and tradition -- as if Johnny Cash or James Dean might walk in at any moment.
In recent years, the number of barbershops in Japan has fallen -- from 142,544 in 1995 to 110,297 in 2023, according to the Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare. But the industry is fighting back, hoping that events such as the World Barber Classic will encourage aspiring barbers to adopt the latest techniques and equipment while demonstrating that barbershops are places where customers from across the world can feel at home.
Dan Orlowitz is a contributing writer and photographer.
World Barber Classic competitors were judged by a panel of renowned stylists and educators including Josh Lamonaca, third from right, co-founder of London-based grooming brand Menspire.
World Barber Classic competitors were judged by a panel of renowned stylists and educators including Josh Lamonaca, third from right, co-founder of London-based grooming brand Menspire.
Spectators were urged to come down from their seats to the standing areas surrounding the ring, giving the event a festival atmosphere. The action unfolded in the historic Korakuen Hall, a mecca for martial arts and combat sports in Japan, and one of the country’s most famous professional wrestling venues.
Spectators were urged to come down from their seats to the standing areas surrounding the ring, giving the event a festival atmosphere. The action unfolded in the historic Korakuen Hall, a mecca for martial arts and combat sports in Japan, and one of the country’s most famous professional wrestling venues.
During the two 30-minute elimination rounds, competitors had their focus tested from start to finish as MCs, judges and cameramen roamed the stage throughout.
During the two 30-minute elimination rounds, competitors had their focus tested from start to finish as MCs, judges and cameramen roamed the stage throughout.
Lamonaca, who travels the world conducting seminars, cites the influence of music on hairstyling and how he thinks it can help barbers better understand the wants and needs of their clients. “You’ve got to understand the influence of hip hop [and] the tribes of rock and pop culture,” Lamonaca told Nikkei Asia. “You have to have all of this knowledge fundamentally to understand hair in its totality.”
Lamonaca, who travels the world conducting seminars, cites the influence of music on hairstyling and how he thinks it can help barbers better understand the wants and needs of their clients. “You’ve got to understand the influence of hip hop [and] the tribes of rock and pop culture,” Lamonaca told Nikkei Asia. “You have to have all of this knowledge fundamentally to understand hair in its totality.”
The three finalists prepare their models for the championship round. Among the prizes at stake were the winner’s trophy, a cart full of barbering equipment and supplies from the event’s sponsors, a showcase appearance in the next WBC and introductions to overseas barber events.
The three finalists prepare their models for the championship round. Among the prizes at stake were the winner’s trophy, a cart full of barbering equipment and supplies from the event’s sponsors, a showcase appearance in the next WBC and introductions to overseas barber events.
Among those crowding the barriers around the ring were competitors' family members, including the enthusiastic daughter of Junya Okamoto, a barber at Hair Salon Miyatake in Kagawa prefecture and winner of the WBC's Chugoku and Shikoku regional preliminary. Okamoto inherited his passion for barbering from his father, who runs his own shop in their native Kochi prefecture.
Among those crowding the barriers around the ring were competitors' family members, including the enthusiastic daughter of Junya Okamoto, a barber at Hair Salon Miyatake in Kagawa prefecture and winner of the WBC's Chugoku and Shikoku regional preliminary. Okamoto inherited his passion for barbering from his father, who runs his own shop in their native Kochi prefecture.
The decision by WBC organizers to hold the event on a Monday was no coincidence: Many Japanese barbershops are closed that day so that employees can rest after a busy weekend. The tradition’s roots lie in the early postwar era, when the country’s power supply was unstable and Mondays were often designated as official blackout days.
The decision by WBC organizers to hold the event on a Monday was no coincidence: Many Japanese barbershops are closed that day so that employees can rest after a busy weekend. The tradition’s roots lie in the early postwar era, when the country’s power supply was unstable and Mondays were often designated as official blackout days.
In the event’s vendor area, a pair of pattern-hammered titanium scissors from Mizutani Scissors was available for 234,300 yen ($1,580). Products created by the Matsudo, Chiba prefecture-based company, founded in 1921, range from razors priced at 18,700 yen to hand-engraved scissors selling for 424,600 yen.
In the event’s vendor area, a pair of pattern-hammered titanium scissors from Mizutani Scissors was available for 234,300 yen ($1,580). Products created by the Matsudo, Chiba prefecture-based company, founded in 1921, range from razors priced at 18,700 yen to hand-engraved scissors selling for 424,600 yen.
Malaysian Qayyum Sanusi, a two-time Barbershop Expo Asia champion, was competing in his first WBC after finishing runner-up in the Southeast Asia qualifier. He was joined in Tokyo by the winner of that event, Vietnam's Pham Huu Loc.
Malaysian Qayyum Sanusi, a two-time Barbershop Expo Asia champion, was competing in his first WBC after finishing runner-up in the Southeast Asia qualifier. He was joined in Tokyo by the winner of that event, Vietnam's Pham Huu Loc.
Takumi Nishino, founder of Kagoshima barbershop Western Field 38 Trackin and winner of the WBC’s Kyushu regional qualifier, said he wanted even attendees from outside the industry to look at his cut and think, “Wow, that’s wild.”
Takumi Nishino, founder of Kagoshima barbershop Western Field 38 Trackin and winner of the WBC’s Kyushu regional qualifier, said he wanted even attendees from outside the industry to look at his cut and think, “Wow, that’s wild.”
Shoma Sugimura was one of two head barbers representing Japanese chain Mr. Brothers Cut Club, which also has locations in Singapore and Los Angeles. “The essence of what we do is extremely important, and it’s about technique, and how you’re attending to your customers,” he said during his first presentation. “I want the person sitting in the chair in front of me to look as cool as possible.”
Shoma Sugimura was one of two head barbers representing Japanese chain Mr. Brothers Cut Club, which also has locations in Singapore and Los Angeles. “The essence of what we do is extremely important, and it’s about technique, and how you’re attending to your customers,” he said during his first presentation. “I want the person sitting in the chair in front of me to look as cool as possible.”
Park “V” Chi Guk, right, winner of the South Korea preliminary qualifier, describes his style as “a mix of classic and new age,” and says one of the local barber industry’s biggest challenges is emerging from the shadow of stylists who dominate the Korean pop culture scene. “We won’t gain recognition until more idols start to come out with barbershop styles,” he told Nikkei Asia.
Park “V” Chi Guk, right, winner of the South Korea preliminary qualifier, describes his style as “a mix of classic and new age,” and says one of the local barber industry’s biggest challenges is emerging from the shadow of stylists who dominate the Korean pop culture scene. “We won’t gain recognition until more idols start to come out with barbershop styles,” he told Nikkei Asia.
Mr. Sasaki works on his finalist model, fellow Spinner Barbearia barber and underground rapper Bruno. Sasaki told Nikkei Asia that in a field of competitors inspired by styles popular in the U.S., he aimed to stand out with cuts and designs preferred by his South American customers.
Mr. Sasaki works on his finalist model, fellow Spinner Barbearia barber and underground rapper Bruno. Sasaki told Nikkei Asia that in a field of competitors inspired by styles popular in the U.S., he aimed to stand out with cuts and designs preferred by his South American customers.
Sasaki celebrates after being declared the winner, five years after his third-place finish at the inaugural WBC in Yokohama.
Sasaki celebrates after being declared the winner, five years after his third-place finish at the inaugural WBC in Yokohama.
Sasaki’s barber journey began 20 years ago when he befriended Japanese Brazilians in the industrial park where he was living and learned to cut their favorite types of fades. “I felt like I was going to cry during my presentation and had to restrain myself for a minute, but I was very glad to have their support.”
Sasaki’s barber journey began 20 years ago when he befriended Japanese Brazilians in the industrial park where he was living and learned to cut their favorite types of fades. “I felt like I was going to cry during my presentation and had to restrain myself for a minute, but I was very glad to have their support.”
V’s third-place finish made him the first non-Japanese barber to reach the WBC podium. “Reaching the final will give a lot of encouragement to Korean barbers, and if I can win it will prove that we’re able to compete on the international stage,” V said before the final bout.
V’s third-place finish made him the first non-Japanese barber to reach the WBC podium. “Reaching the final will give a lot of encouragement to Korean barbers, and if I can win it will prove that we’re able to compete on the international stage,” V said before the final bout.
“You may not think of barbers as a profession that should be performing onstage, but our work is carried out in millimeters and that’s something we repeat every day,” said Masahiro Kawakami, special adviser to the WBC and owner of the Hokkaido-based Apache barbershop chain. “And I want events like this to be places where we can demonstrate all of the effort that goes into that work.”
“You may not think of barbers as a profession that should be performing onstage, but our work is carried out in millimeters and that’s something we repeat every day,” said Masahiro Kawakami, special adviser to the WBC and owner of the Hokkaido-based Apache barbershop chain. “And I want events like this to be places where we can demonstrate all of the effort that goes into that work.”